absolutelyBangkok archive · Bangkok Sirens
Originally published June 12, 2011
The Chinese have a far-reaching presence throughout Thailand, but the majority are from Bangkok and other coastal regions. Most of the Chinese population originally lived on Rattanakosin Island, which lies on the east side of the Chao Phraya River. However, in 1782 King Rama I forced the Chinese immigrants south to make room for the construction of the Grand Palace and other government structures. The new location of the Chinese immigrants is the area between Yaowarat Road and the Chao Phraya River — Bangkok’s Chinatown.
Today, Chinatown matches the setting of an endless swap meet with loud whistles and chatter, roaring engines, decorated temples, gold shops, and alleyways jammed packed with merchandise. With so much to see and do in Chinatown, it is best to explore this area by foot. If you don’t mind crowds and love to hunt for great deals, the four-story wholesale market along Sampeng Soi (Soi Wanit 1) is a must-see. Walking in, you feel slightly sedated by the surrounding aromas of food, leather, and petroleum. Most everything found here and throughout Chinatown is actually made in China, including the peculiar magic tricks and trinkets found at Star Toys. On your way out, beware of the motorcycle delivery drivers that weave in and out of the narrow alleys, as these dare devils are known to force pedestrians to the wayside. While you’re in the neighborhood, find time to turn left from Sampeng Soi to Soi Isara Nuphap where you can find some the best herbalists and pharmacists in the city.
Another market that is considered to be one of the best in Thailand and Bangkok is the 24-hour Pak Khlong Flower Market, located along Chak Phet Road. Pak Khlong is best shopped at dawn when the flowers, fruits, and vegetables are fresh. This vibrant market almost feels like an arboretum, as you walk past exotic varieties of flowers from different growing regions in Thailand. Head up north to Phra Phitak Road, which in a few blocks becomes Phahurat Road, to discover Chinatown’s own sub-district of Little India. This small community of Indian immigrants share the rainbow-colored streets with the Pahurat Textile Market at it’s center.
Complete the afternoon with a visit to Wat Traimit, open 9 a.m. — 5 p.m. daily and stationed at 661 Charoen Krung Road. Here, you will find the only Buddha statue in Thailand that is made of solid gold. The fact that this 13th century sculpture stands 13 feet or 4 meters tall and weighs 12,000 pounds or 5,500 kilograms is enough for anyone to make a stop.
Be aware of the time of your trip to Bangkok, as the Chinese hold extraordinary festivals in the city. If you plan your trip during the fall months, check out the 9-day Vegetarian Festival which takes place in late September and early October.
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