absolutelyBangkok archive · Culture & Arts
Originally published Feb. 9, 2009
Yes yes, seen that, done that. A Bangkok klong tour departing from Central Pier, also called Sathorn Pier at Saphan Taksin, bringing you to Thonburi. The boatsmen are mostly unfriendliness in persona and for the prices they charge you could nearly buy a boat. This is the farang land we all try to avoid.
Klongs though remain at the very heart of Bangkok life itself. Temperatures along klongs will always be fresher and life is — apart from the unspeakably loud boat engines — most peaceful and relaxed. The Bangkok of back then still exists, you just have to find it. We were lucky enough to discover even more:
The other day, after systematically shunning tourist attractions in Bangkok for years, our whole clan took a klong tour under the masterful guidance of Hans M. Hensel, German national and Bangkok resident since 26 years. And author of the unique guide book “Bangkok von innen” — Bangkok from the inside, a truly different insider’s travel guide.
Along came Dutch historian and Thailand adept
B. J. Terwiel. I doubt there are many Thais who know more about Thai history, society and current Thailand than professor Baas Terwiel. The only problem with him: If he shares his deep insights with Thais they mostly get upset. They’re not used to be told by a foreigner what their country and culture are all about.
Our klong tour brings us to Nonthaburi, Klong Om and Bang Yai. Take the public speed boat from Central pier to Nonthaburi. It’s a 70 minutes ride. Arriving at Nonthaburi talk to the boatmen and charter a long tail boat. We paid 1,600 baht for a big one and the two-hours ride.
You’ll enter Klong Om, reach Bang Yai and continue via Klong Bangkok Noi to Bang Kruai back to Nonthaburi. Have a break or two along the way. And don’t go back without having stopped at Wat Chaloem at the very end. That has to be arranged with the boatsman before departing.
Adjacent to Wat Chaloem have a stroll through magnificent Suan Kanchanapisek, Bangkok’s probably most beautiful public park with “Bangkok’s most beautiful public toilets,” as Hans put it.
That’s it already. You’ll have a perfect day. A last tip though: If you depart Sathorn Pier around noon you’ll return in the evening. Take the last boat at 6.40 p.m. you’ll enjoy Grand Palace, Wat Arun and all the other beauties along the river in full illumination.
Tourists pay well over a thousand baht for the sight. You get it for 13 baht a one-way ticket. A nice goody to conclude a beautiful afternoon. Before you’re heading to your favorite eatery, as it will be high time for some decent food and beer.
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